July 12
We woke up feeling poorly, but managed to stuff our belongings into our bags and got out before 9. A taxi brought us to our tour and we rushed to find food.
Alas a tough day in Peru. Bethany is sick as a dog, and is barely conscious for the tour. Which isn't all the of a problem because the tour guide is a dull robot who speaks too quietly to understand, but too loud to sleep. We saw the puya raimondi- ok and we saw some petroglyphs - not bad and a glacier - pretty nice really. Then we had lunch and the tourist trap was sprung. Bad soup and tasteless chicken (but at least it was expensive). It is off to Lima tonight for our final day in Peru (and a second viewing of that outstanding movie The Marine II). Hopefully tomorrow will be the great send off we would like to end our trip.
This entry wouldn't be complete without mentioning how cool our Hostal owner Emilio was. He was incredibly friendly and helpful. Anyone going to Huaraz should stay at Hostal Ezama.
-Patrick (&Bethany)
July 11
This dry air is brutal. It makes us wake up every two hours to drink (and the altitude makes us pee)
So we needed a slow day. It started with an extra hour in bed. The California Cafe was our next stop for a delicious breakfast, some great music & Wifi. Then it was a short walk to the artesenal market to buy some Peru.
Shopping, of course makes a person hungry so we went back to our favorite crepe place for a burger. An alpaca burger! It was nice and tasty.
Finally we decided it was time to do some hiking, so we found a combi to take us to the trail. It sat for a while and we wondered why we weren't moving. That is when I saw the driver hog tie a lamb and tie it to the roof. Next a woman with a dog came in, a woman with a puppy and a woman with a bag of pigs! We are definitely in Peru.
Our combi took us to the Wilkuhuain ruins which were closed, but incredibly well preserved.
We realized that we didn't have time, so we did just a shortened walk to a field of boulders with a fantastic view.
After the walk down we had a bit of time to wait so we split a beer and relaxed.
The night ended on a more sour note as we did some last minute chores and realized we were both quite under the weather.
-Patrick (&Bethany)
July 10
Waking up early today was not exactly a treat, but where we headed was. Today was the Laguna 69 hike. We met our new companions (Joe & Christina) at the combi terminal and set out for Yungay. Next up we hired a taxi to take us up the crazy, hour long ride to the trailhead. We passed the beautiful Llanganuco lake and a few others and then set off on our 6 hour hike.
It was, of course, beautiful. We could see the snow covered peaks of Huascaran, great waterfalls, a high plain where cattle were grazing and finally Laguna 69. The water was incredibly clear and beautiful and just below the glacier. We sat and had lunch and listened to the mountains alive with winds and rock slides. It was a glorious day.
-Patrick (&Bethany)
July 9
A slow start to this day as we slept poorly. We spent too much time and money looking for breakfast. Eventually, we found our way to the combi to Llupa where we would start our trek to the Laguna Churup. There we met Joe a peace core volunteer from CT volunteering in Ecuador. He negotiated a more reasonable price for our trip and off we went to Churup.
It was a hot and steep hike up to the lake, but well worth it. The scenery was spectacular, the day great and when we arrived, the lake was beautiful.
We took a few pictures and then high-tailed it back down to where the combi was waiting. We were 35 minutes late, but thankfully he was still there. We were really glad to see him as we were out of water and parched.
After a shower we had dinner with Joe & his girlfriend Christina at our favorite Crepe place. Then we fell down and pretended to be dead for approximately 8 hours.
-Patrick (&Bethany)
July 8
To acclimatize to the high altitude we decide to take a tour to see Chavin de Huantar. Our very helpful host Emillio dropped us off at the tour bus and even helped us buy some breakfast.
A very personable and humorous tour guide (who spoke only in Spanish) had the bus in stitches. Patrick got only a few of the jokes.
We stopped at a pretty lagoon on the way. The aquamarine blue water was beautiful against the snow capped mountains.
We stopped for lunch. At what seemed a tourist trap, but turned out to have some tasty chicken.
The tour at the archaeological site was nearly incomprehensible, and that which was understood seemed far fetched, but the site was wicked cool. There was a underground labyrinth and a series of truncated pyramids and a big old statue.
Later we went to a museum that showed the stone heads that had once adorned the side of the temple.
Back to Huaraz and a tasty dinner of panchamanca (3 meats and veggies cooked in earthenware) and a causa (funky potato salad).
-Patrick (&Bethany)
July 7
Another day another ancient temple. This one was especially nice as it depicted many decapitated and/or dismembered bodies. Those guys at Sechin knew how to have a good time.
The bus ride to Huaraz through the Cordillera Negra into the Cordillera Blanca was pretty as a peach. Even better was the fried dough that we found on our walk to the hostel. We are going to eat a lot of those I think. It might be best for our health that we are leaving in a week.
Really the best thing was dinner at Creperie Patrick. The name is not it's only outstanding feature. The loom saltado in cognac sauce and the chicken crepe were marvelous.
-Patrick (&Bethany)
July 6th
What fun! More long bus rides! Start in Chiclayo, go to trujillo eat a lousy dinner and go to Chimbote (which smells like fish) and then to Casma which seems to be just a noisy stop on the highway ( ok there is a ruin outside of town, but this is a grim place).
-Patrick (&Bethany)
Sunday, July 24, 2011
Tuesday, July 5, 2011
Along Peru´s North Coast
July 5 (Chiclayo)
We started the day with some yummy yoghurt and spent most of the day in the town of Lambayeque taking in more of the archeological sites that are plentiful along the north coast. In the Bruning Museum we saw artifacts from Chimu, Moche, Chavin and Vicus cultures. The second museum we visited Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipan had a much nicer display. Unfortunately both museums were only in Spanish. Lunch was a highlight... dare I say the best meal in Peru thus far... we stopped at La Cantaro and waited for a table. It was worth the wait. MMMMmmmmm Sudado des Pescado (Whole Fish Stew). A trip to nearby Tucume rounded out the day. The adobe bricks that once formed the likely impressive tombs and temples have been eroded away by years and years of rains, however you can still imagine the grandeur of the site.
-Bethany (& Patrick)
July 4 ( ?? - Chiclayo)
Happy Birthday Dad! Happy Independance Day!
We woke and said goodbye to our gracious hosts. Victor even took the colectivo ride with us out to the main highway. Instead of a bus, a passing truck was looking for passengers. We think he was travelling to Chiclayo for work and had some spare room in the cab. It was a comfortable and uncrowded ride. When we pulled into a gas station I went in search of a chocolate bar but found that the store was closed. A man filling his truck asked in perfect English what I was looking for and I sheepishly explained my chocolate addiction. We visted for a while and learned that he had been an exchange student in upstate New York. The whole conversation concluded with him pulling a Triangulo (my favorite Peruvian chocolate bar) from the cab of his truck and giving it to me - just another example of Peruvian kindnes
Chiclayo has a very modern flavor. Our first stop was at huge supermarket instead of the smaller corner stores that we have found in other towns around Peru and you won´t find people in traditional dress, but very modern attire in this city.
I was in desperate search of a hotel with a shower. It is hot on the north coast and we were both in need of a bar of soap and some hot water. We cleaned up and spent the afternoon at the archeolgical site of the Senior de Sipan. This particular tomb was especially important for archeologists because the site had not been robbed and the tomb was filled with teasures.
We decided to take it really easy this evening. We ate a traditional Peruvian meal and then grabbed a beer and enjoyed the comfort of our hotel and a HBO movie.
-Bethany (&Patrick)
July 3 (Huanchaco - ??)
Combi B took us to the PanAmerican highway and breakfast with an extra egg (Patrick thinks it is important that I include this). We flagged down a bus and headed north to Chocope. One more combi ride took us to the town just outside of the Museo el Brujo. On that combi is where we met Victor. Victor patiently conversed with us and our limited Spanish. When we got off the bus we thought he was taking us to find a mototaxi but then he welcomed us into his home. Before we knew it we had agreed to go with him to a neighbours for ¨The Gathering of Friends Day¨. They were having a party and wanted us to come and had an extra room for us to stay. He and his wife were very nice.
Before the party we took a very very bumpy moto-taxi ride to the museum. This mummy was discovered only a few years ago and was in remarkable condition. The tatoos are still visable on her skin after hundreds of years. Quite remarkable!
When we returned to town Victor hurried us along to a house down the street. They served us a plate of yummy chicken and rice and we were introduced to all the other guests. The afternoon went on with conversation, miming, dancing, beer, children performing, volleyball in the street, dinner and more beer. A true Peruvian experience!
-Bethany (&Patrick)
We started the day with some yummy yoghurt and spent most of the day in the town of Lambayeque taking in more of the archeological sites that are plentiful along the north coast. In the Bruning Museum we saw artifacts from Chimu, Moche, Chavin and Vicus cultures. The second museum we visited Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipan had a much nicer display. Unfortunately both museums were only in Spanish. Lunch was a highlight... dare I say the best meal in Peru thus far... we stopped at La Cantaro and waited for a table. It was worth the wait. MMMMmmmmm Sudado des Pescado (Whole Fish Stew). A trip to nearby Tucume rounded out the day. The adobe bricks that once formed the likely impressive tombs and temples have been eroded away by years and years of rains, however you can still imagine the grandeur of the site.
-Bethany (& Patrick)
July 4 ( ?? - Chiclayo)
Happy Birthday Dad! Happy Independance Day!
We woke and said goodbye to our gracious hosts. Victor even took the colectivo ride with us out to the main highway. Instead of a bus, a passing truck was looking for passengers. We think he was travelling to Chiclayo for work and had some spare room in the cab. It was a comfortable and uncrowded ride. When we pulled into a gas station I went in search of a chocolate bar but found that the store was closed. A man filling his truck asked in perfect English what I was looking for and I sheepishly explained my chocolate addiction. We visted for a while and learned that he had been an exchange student in upstate New York. The whole conversation concluded with him pulling a Triangulo (my favorite Peruvian chocolate bar) from the cab of his truck and giving it to me - just another example of Peruvian kindnes
Chiclayo has a very modern flavor. Our first stop was at huge supermarket instead of the smaller corner stores that we have found in other towns around Peru and you won´t find people in traditional dress, but very modern attire in this city.
I was in desperate search of a hotel with a shower. It is hot on the north coast and we were both in need of a bar of soap and some hot water. We cleaned up and spent the afternoon at the archeolgical site of the Senior de Sipan. This particular tomb was especially important for archeologists because the site had not been robbed and the tomb was filled with teasures.
We decided to take it really easy this evening. We ate a traditional Peruvian meal and then grabbed a beer and enjoyed the comfort of our hotel and a HBO movie.
-Bethany (&Patrick)
July 3 (Huanchaco - ??)
Combi B took us to the PanAmerican highway and breakfast with an extra egg (Patrick thinks it is important that I include this). We flagged down a bus and headed north to Chocope. One more combi ride took us to the town just outside of the Museo el Brujo. On that combi is where we met Victor. Victor patiently conversed with us and our limited Spanish. When we got off the bus we thought he was taking us to find a mototaxi but then he welcomed us into his home. Before we knew it we had agreed to go with him to a neighbours for ¨The Gathering of Friends Day¨. They were having a party and wanted us to come and had an extra room for us to stay. He and his wife were very nice.
Before the party we took a very very bumpy moto-taxi ride to the museum. This mummy was discovered only a few years ago and was in remarkable condition. The tatoos are still visable on her skin after hundreds of years. Quite remarkable!
When we returned to town Victor hurried us along to a house down the street. They served us a plate of yummy chicken and rice and we were introduced to all the other guests. The afternoon went on with conversation, miming, dancing, beer, children performing, volleyball in the street, dinner and more beer. A true Peruvian experience!
-Bethany (&Patrick)
Friday, July 1, 2011
Computer stolen in Pisco
Alas, the computer with about 3000 pictures was stolen at the bus stop in Pisco. More posts to come, but pictures will be more difficult. :(
More Posts
June 30th (Huacachina - Paracas - Pisco)
I have been looking forward to this day! I had a list of top things that I wanted to see in Peru and Isle de Ballestras was near the top of the list. We started the day early, to the sounds of a taxi outside our room using its car alarm to try to attract customers at 4am. We enjoyed nearly another two hours of sleep and then got on the 6 am bus to Paracas. From there we boarded a tour boat for a 2.5 hour ride around the Isle de Ballestras which is also known as the "poor man's Galapagos Islands" as it is only about $15 to visit instead of $400.
I loved it. The first birds that we come across come in droves. A long, long, long line of birds (mostly Cormorants and some Boobies) is flying across the water. Our guide tells us that this is a normal behavior but only seen about 5 times a year. It was incredible, there were thousands and thousands of birds in the air and bathing in the water. When we got to the island there were hundreds of thousands more birds.
We saw:
-White Headed Boobies
-Black Headed Boobies (which are actually juvenile Blue Legged Boobies that are migrating to the Galapagos)
-Inca Terns
-White Breasted Cormorants
-Red Legged Cormorants
-Blackish Cormorants
-Red Headed Vultures feasting on a dead sea lion
-Penguins
-Sea Lions and Baby Sea Lions
-Band Tailed Seagulls
-Star Fish
-Sea Spiders (crabs)
-Peruvian Pelicans
Our guide was wonderful and the boat driver drove us right next to the island for great views of the birds. We enjoyed interesting information about the birds and the island. The Boobies make their nests out of their own excrement. We watched the birds fishing and bombing into the water head first at 90km/hr. This was another highlight for me. I saw one catch a fish at close range. It was amazing! AMAZING!
In the afternoon we joined up with Laura and Daniel from California and decided to walk through Paracas National Park to a little fishing village called Lagunillas. At our first stop along the bay we watched the Chilean Flamingos. They migrate to this spot starting at the end of June so there were just a few dozen hanging out at the edge of the water. Juxtaposed to this nice scene was the beach which was littered, no the beach was COVERED with plastic shopping bags. Please use cloth!
A long walk through the desert was rewarded with spectacular views of the ocean, a bay filled with little fishing boats and a tasty meal of fresh ceviche, tasty sea bass and the regions special drink - the Pisco Sour.
We finished the day off with a combi ride to Pisco and found a very clean, very comfortable hostel with WiFi. It is a treat. It was a terrific day and I slept like a rock.
-Bethany (& Patrick)
June 29th
What a day. It started at the crack of 9. We got up, packed and set off on a tour de Ica. First up, the chocolate factory. Yummy. Not much
June28th
June 27th (Pinchollo, Cabanaconde, Arequipa)
Slept poorly last night. It must have been my aching bum. It wasn't so much the bike ride, but Aikido the day before (I blame the altitude, or something). On the other hand Bethany's sore bum was entirely due to the 5 hours of biking yesterday.
After a hearty breakfast we leapt into action.
Ok, I was tired and Bethany was sore and still feeling the ill effects of Peruvian food, so we walked up hill and then eventually started biking. The hour long slog, led our sore bums through some gorgeous country covered with Incan & pre-Incan terraces still in use for kilometers and kilometers (we have gone metric!). Eventually we came to the mirador whose name I have forgotten, but whose most interesting aspect was that it was next to the Cruz del Condor where strangely enough there were a bunch of condors. It was fantastic. Bethany didn't want to leave.
They flew close enough that we could hear the wind in their wings!
After the Cruz del Condor, we coasted down to Cabanaconde, caught a bus back to Arequipa, grabbed some dinner and headed off to Nazca. The bus seemed nice. We got food, we got comfy seats, we got a smelly old woman next to us, we got the police to pull someone off the bus, we got a rather noisy, bad movie & a speed indicator that beeped every time we got crossed 90 kph. It was a joy. We are thirty minutes in. I hope that it gets better.
-Patrick (& Bethany)
June 26th (Arequipa, Chivay, Pinchollo)
It is Sunday and we take the local bus 3 hours to Chivay. We are going so that we can see the 2nd deepest canyon in the world (loosing only to the adjacent canyon by 150 meters). It was an early start to the day because we wanted to arrive as soon as the bike shop opened at 9am. Town was bustling but as it was Sunday the bike shop was closed. It was a shame because the Lonely Planet guide said the shop rented bikes for S./5 per day (approx $2). Instead we came across another place that rented us bikes for S./50 per day. It took forever... we didn't start peddling on our route until noon. But the sun was shining and it felt great to be on bikes. The scenery was lovely. We biked alongside a cattle being herded down the road, into small towns, and next to the terraced mountains. Most vehicles passing by honked a friendly hello. A small girl and her friend took a fasination with us when we arrived in Maca. They took turns riding around the plaza on their shared bike. She giggled most times she passed by us. Her friend threw flowers at us. Occasionally she would come and collect the tossed flowers. It is fun to see the children.
The first part of the ride was mostly down hill and paved. The road then turned to perfect butt tenderizing bumps on a gravel road. It was tolerable until about mile 23 when I thought I would never be able to sit again if I had to spend another minute on that bike seat. I shifted from standing on the peddles or occasionally walking breaks.
With only a half hour of light left in the day, we decided to cut the ride short of our intended destination and turned back for the town of Pinchollo where their was a hostel. I felt so welcome in Pinchollo. Everyone we met greeted us with a warm welcome. We usually get warm greetings, but in this town it was especially warm. The woman who ran the hostel found us in the main square and took us in and arranged to get us dinner. It was getting cold and I was very appreciative of a full thermos of hot tea along side our rice, egg and potatoes. We went straight to bed after dinner. We plan to start on our bikes early tomorrow so that we can don't miss the highlight of the canyon- the large condors soar on the air currents. The best time to spot them is between 9 and 10am and we don't want to miss it.
-Bethany (& Patrick)
June 25th (Arequipa)
There is a large convent in Arequipa. It is a whole bright and colorful village inside of the white walls. The place is interesting and we saw on display the expensive tea sets and other wares that the nuns used to own. For many years well-to-do families would send their second daughter to live their lives as a nun. They continued to live in the style with which they were accustomed complete with parties and lovely furnishings; not the vow of poverty and rather sparse rooms as you might expect.
We contemplated visiting the cathedral but after spending hours trundling through the many streets of the convent, we were a little museumed out and instead enjoyed some ice cream, picked up the laundry, enjoyed a nice dinner, packed and went to bed early. Tomorrow we are catching the 6am bus and plan on biking all day so we will need some quality rest.
-Bethany (& Patrick)
June 24th (Arequipa)
After 30 hours of bus travel we collapse into bed at 3 am. We sleep and then take the morning very slowly with a breakfast on the balcony with three other French tourists. The morning nearly slips away as we share travel stories and consider ideas for trips into the Canyon del Coca near Arequipa. We part ways to spend some time in the city. Patrick and I visit the various tour operator in the city to try to determine which operators offer the tour we are looking for at a resonable price. At 3 we meet up with the French travelers and share informartion about tour options. In the end Patrick and I decide that we will see the Canyon del Colca on our own by bicycle. The French folks opt for a tour. It was a tough choice, both sounded fun.
-Bethany (& Patick)
June 23rd continued (Porto Maldanado - Cuzco - Juliaca - Arequipa)
First 12 hours... bus driver is a mad man! He either has to have his foot on the accelerator or the breaks. We jolted down the highway not getting more than a wink or two of sleep. The heat and humidity of the jungle make the bus a sweat sauna.
Breakfast in Cusco before bus #2.
Second 12 hours... we are headed to Puno but not by the directy route (6 hours). Instead we are taking the 12 hour round about way on slow gravel roads so that we can avoid the town of Juliaca where miners are protesting and rioting. 12 hours later in the middle of the night the bus stops 1/2 hour walk outside of Juliaca! Juliaca isn't a safe town as it is let alone at night as a gringo when their are riots. The bus driver tells us we have to walk into town!
Next 6 hours... Miracuolusly we run across a bus going to Arequipa. We hop on and enjoy the comfortable luxiourious bus ride. Thankfully we have the fully reclining seats because we are bushed.
June 23
Butt hurts. On the way to Puno. 12 hours of horrible bus ride down, 12 hours more to go. At some time I may apply the hydrocortizone.
June 20-22
After breakfast, we met Jony our quiet, fun, smiley, prankster guide who would show us the wonders of the Amazon. The trail head started an hour down the Madre de Dios. We took a motorized put-put canoe then put on our packs for the hour hike through the forest to the huts where we would be staying. The walk in was filled with the sounds and smells of the jungle. At the entrance to the reserve I found myself running behind Jony in pursuit of a snake. Yes I was chasing after a snake! I guess I didn't want to miss a thing of the experience. I was lucky enough to be right behind our guide so that I caught a good sight of the 2 meter long reptile speeding its way over the wood pile. It was a Mushrara snake, one of the fastest. I didn't know something that slithered could motor so quickly.
We dumped our bags and then hopped into a canoe on the Sandoval Lake to do some more wildlife viewing. It felt magical to me. We hear what sounds like smokers wheezing and then Jony points out the "stinky chicken" bird that is responsible for the noises. There are several of them perched in a tree by the waters edge. The birds are about the size of a chicken with a much greater hair do. They aren't so graceful as the fly from branch to branch. Although we will regularly see this bird in the next few days, I think we all sit quietly amazed to be this close to such wild looking fauna. I was so happy and the moments were almost surreal.
We ate a traditional Amazon packed lunch (wrapped and cooked in a banana leaf) and then spent the rest of the afternoon trying to escape the incredible heat. In the end all of us donned our swim gear to go splash in the lake. Piranas, caymans... yes they splash about in this lake too but it was HOT.
The evening was the best time for wildlife viewing because the heat has subsided some. So again we all got into the canoe for another tour around the lake. We continue to add to the list of wildlife that we see. I am astounded at how much we are getting to see at this lake. A highlight this afternoon is when we spend a good long time watching the endangered giant river otters swim about and feed.
Came out of the jungle. Had some ice cream, grabbed a beer and a pizza, said our goodbyes and hit the road. Patrick's ass may survive.
June 21
It is hot, hot, hot and don't forget humid! We are in the jungle. Patrick's ass is now revolting.
June 20
It is hot, hot, hot and don't forget humid! We are in the jungle. Patrick's ass revolts.
June 19
It is hot, hot, hot and don't forget humid! We are in Porto Maldonado. Got here at 7:30 or so after a not so bad bus ride (the Lonley Planet Guide suggested it would suck). We looked at the first hostal, too expensive, then the second hostal, too full, and then the third hostal. It was just right. Ok, it was expensive, but it did have hammocks, and jungle guides, so we stayed. There were an odd mix of inhabitants. There was Michael, the fung shui arborist with an interest in psychoactive jungle mixtures, and the Scottish fellow with a similar interest. After a few hours of lounging in the hammocks (there was nothing else to do in that heat) we met Rebecca the film student and Sruti & Sholpa the Indian cum Zambian cum Americans whom we went to the jungle with. We also went to dinner at the local restaurant called restaurant.In the early evening we enjoyed local entertainment. Two incredibly cute little girls were squeeling with delight as they sat on their mini cars, feet sprawled out to the side and dodging tourist legs as they wheeled down the hill out of control with only their little feet as breaks. Anyone watching couldn't help but smile.
An uninteresting meal rounded out the evening and we headed back to the hotel for an early night sleep. We were both completely exhausted.
-Bethany (& Patrick)
I have been looking forward to this day! I had a list of top things that I wanted to see in Peru and Isle de Ballestras was near the top of the list. We started the day early, to the sounds of a taxi outside our room using its car alarm to try to attract customers at 4am. We enjoyed nearly another two hours of sleep and then got on the 6 am bus to Paracas. From there we boarded a tour boat for a 2.5 hour ride around the Isle de Ballestras which is also known as the "poor man's Galapagos Islands" as it is only about $15 to visit instead of $400.
I loved it. The first birds that we come across come in droves. A long, long, long line of birds (mostly Cormorants and some Boobies) is flying across the water. Our guide tells us that this is a normal behavior but only seen about 5 times a year. It was incredible, there were thousands and thousands of birds in the air and bathing in the water. When we got to the island there were hundreds of thousands more birds.
We saw:
-White Headed Boobies
-Black Headed Boobies (which are actually juvenile Blue Legged Boobies that are migrating to the Galapagos)
-Inca Terns
-White Breasted Cormorants
-Red Legged Cormorants
-Blackish Cormorants
-Red Headed Vultures feasting on a dead sea lion
-Penguins
-Sea Lions and Baby Sea Lions
-Band Tailed Seagulls
-Star Fish
-Sea Spiders (crabs)
-Peruvian Pelicans
Our guide was wonderful and the boat driver drove us right next to the island for great views of the birds. We enjoyed interesting information about the birds and the island. The Boobies make their nests out of their own excrement. We watched the birds fishing and bombing into the water head first at 90km/hr. This was another highlight for me. I saw one catch a fish at close range. It was amazing! AMAZING!
In the afternoon we joined up with Laura and Daniel from California and decided to walk through Paracas National Park to a little fishing village called Lagunillas. At our first stop along the bay we watched the Chilean Flamingos. They migrate to this spot starting at the end of June so there were just a few dozen hanging out at the edge of the water. Juxtaposed to this nice scene was the beach which was littered, no the beach was COVERED with plastic shopping bags. Please use cloth!
A long walk through the desert was rewarded with spectacular views of the ocean, a bay filled with little fishing boats and a tasty meal of fresh ceviche, tasty sea bass and the regions special drink - the Pisco Sour.
We finished the day off with a combi ride to Pisco and found a very clean, very comfortable hostel with WiFi. It is a treat. It was a terrific day and I slept like a rock.
-Bethany (& Patrick)
June 29th
What a day. It started at the crack of 9. We got up, packed and set off on a tour de Ica. First up, the chocolate factory. Yummy. Not much
June28th
June 27th (Pinchollo, Cabanaconde, Arequipa)
Slept poorly last night. It must have been my aching bum. It wasn't so much the bike ride, but Aikido the day before (I blame the altitude, or something). On the other hand Bethany's sore bum was entirely due to the 5 hours of biking yesterday.
After a hearty breakfast we leapt into action.
Ok, I was tired and Bethany was sore and still feeling the ill effects of Peruvian food, so we walked up hill and then eventually started biking. The hour long slog, led our sore bums through some gorgeous country covered with Incan & pre-Incan terraces still in use for kilometers and kilometers (we have gone metric!). Eventually we came to the mirador whose name I have forgotten, but whose most interesting aspect was that it was next to the Cruz del Condor where strangely enough there were a bunch of condors. It was fantastic. Bethany didn't want to leave.
They flew close enough that we could hear the wind in their wings!
After the Cruz del Condor, we coasted down to Cabanaconde, caught a bus back to Arequipa, grabbed some dinner and headed off to Nazca. The bus seemed nice. We got food, we got comfy seats, we got a smelly old woman next to us, we got the police to pull someone off the bus, we got a rather noisy, bad movie & a speed indicator that beeped every time we got crossed 90 kph. It was a joy. We are thirty minutes in. I hope that it gets better.
-Patrick (& Bethany)
June 26th (Arequipa, Chivay, Pinchollo)
It is Sunday and we take the local bus 3 hours to Chivay. We are going so that we can see the 2nd deepest canyon in the world (loosing only to the adjacent canyon by 150 meters). It was an early start to the day because we wanted to arrive as soon as the bike shop opened at 9am. Town was bustling but as it was Sunday the bike shop was closed. It was a shame because the Lonely Planet guide said the shop rented bikes for S./5 per day (approx $2). Instead we came across another place that rented us bikes for S./50 per day. It took forever... we didn't start peddling on our route until noon. But the sun was shining and it felt great to be on bikes. The scenery was lovely. We biked alongside a cattle being herded down the road, into small towns, and next to the terraced mountains. Most vehicles passing by honked a friendly hello. A small girl and her friend took a fasination with us when we arrived in Maca. They took turns riding around the plaza on their shared bike. She giggled most times she passed by us. Her friend threw flowers at us. Occasionally she would come and collect the tossed flowers. It is fun to see the children.
The first part of the ride was mostly down hill and paved. The road then turned to perfect butt tenderizing bumps on a gravel road. It was tolerable until about mile 23 when I thought I would never be able to sit again if I had to spend another minute on that bike seat. I shifted from standing on the peddles or occasionally walking breaks.
With only a half hour of light left in the day, we decided to cut the ride short of our intended destination and turned back for the town of Pinchollo where their was a hostel. I felt so welcome in Pinchollo. Everyone we met greeted us with a warm welcome. We usually get warm greetings, but in this town it was especially warm. The woman who ran the hostel found us in the main square and took us in and arranged to get us dinner. It was getting cold and I was very appreciative of a full thermos of hot tea along side our rice, egg and potatoes. We went straight to bed after dinner. We plan to start on our bikes early tomorrow so that we can don't miss the highlight of the canyon- the large condors soar on the air currents. The best time to spot them is between 9 and 10am and we don't want to miss it.
-Bethany (& Patrick)
June 25th (Arequipa)
There is a large convent in Arequipa. It is a whole bright and colorful village inside of the white walls. The place is interesting and we saw on display the expensive tea sets and other wares that the nuns used to own. For many years well-to-do families would send their second daughter to live their lives as a nun. They continued to live in the style with which they were accustomed complete with parties and lovely furnishings; not the vow of poverty and rather sparse rooms as you might expect.
We contemplated visiting the cathedral but after spending hours trundling through the many streets of the convent, we were a little museumed out and instead enjoyed some ice cream, picked up the laundry, enjoyed a nice dinner, packed and went to bed early. Tomorrow we are catching the 6am bus and plan on biking all day so we will need some quality rest.
-Bethany (& Patrick)
June 24th (Arequipa)
After 30 hours of bus travel we collapse into bed at 3 am. We sleep and then take the morning very slowly with a breakfast on the balcony with three other French tourists. The morning nearly slips away as we share travel stories and consider ideas for trips into the Canyon del Coca near Arequipa. We part ways to spend some time in the city. Patrick and I visit the various tour operator in the city to try to determine which operators offer the tour we are looking for at a resonable price. At 3 we meet up with the French travelers and share informartion about tour options. In the end Patrick and I decide that we will see the Canyon del Colca on our own by bicycle. The French folks opt for a tour. It was a tough choice, both sounded fun.
-Bethany (& Patick)
June 23rd continued (Porto Maldanado - Cuzco - Juliaca - Arequipa)
First 12 hours... bus driver is a mad man! He either has to have his foot on the accelerator or the breaks. We jolted down the highway not getting more than a wink or two of sleep. The heat and humidity of the jungle make the bus a sweat sauna.
Breakfast in Cusco before bus #2.
Second 12 hours... we are headed to Puno but not by the directy route (6 hours). Instead we are taking the 12 hour round about way on slow gravel roads so that we can avoid the town of Juliaca where miners are protesting and rioting. 12 hours later in the middle of the night the bus stops 1/2 hour walk outside of Juliaca! Juliaca isn't a safe town as it is let alone at night as a gringo when their are riots. The bus driver tells us we have to walk into town!
Next 6 hours... Miracuolusly we run across a bus going to Arequipa. We hop on and enjoy the comfortable luxiourious bus ride. Thankfully we have the fully reclining seats because we are bushed.
June 23
Butt hurts. On the way to Puno. 12 hours of horrible bus ride down, 12 hours more to go. At some time I may apply the hydrocortizone.
June 20-22
After breakfast, we met Jony our quiet, fun, smiley, prankster guide who would show us the wonders of the Amazon. The trail head started an hour down the Madre de Dios. We took a motorized put-put canoe then put on our packs for the hour hike through the forest to the huts where we would be staying. The walk in was filled with the sounds and smells of the jungle. At the entrance to the reserve I found myself running behind Jony in pursuit of a snake. Yes I was chasing after a snake! I guess I didn't want to miss a thing of the experience. I was lucky enough to be right behind our guide so that I caught a good sight of the 2 meter long reptile speeding its way over the wood pile. It was a Mushrara snake, one of the fastest. I didn't know something that slithered could motor so quickly.
We dumped our bags and then hopped into a canoe on the Sandoval Lake to do some more wildlife viewing. It felt magical to me. We hear what sounds like smokers wheezing and then Jony points out the "stinky chicken" bird that is responsible for the noises. There are several of them perched in a tree by the waters edge. The birds are about the size of a chicken with a much greater hair do. They aren't so graceful as the fly from branch to branch. Although we will regularly see this bird in the next few days, I think we all sit quietly amazed to be this close to such wild looking fauna. I was so happy and the moments were almost surreal.
We ate a traditional Amazon packed lunch (wrapped and cooked in a banana leaf) and then spent the rest of the afternoon trying to escape the incredible heat. In the end all of us donned our swim gear to go splash in the lake. Piranas, caymans... yes they splash about in this lake too but it was HOT.
The evening was the best time for wildlife viewing because the heat has subsided some. So again we all got into the canoe for another tour around the lake. We continue to add to the list of wildlife that we see. I am astounded at how much we are getting to see at this lake. A highlight this afternoon is when we spend a good long time watching the endangered giant river otters swim about and feed.
Came out of the jungle. Had some ice cream, grabbed a beer and a pizza, said our goodbyes and hit the road. Patrick's ass may survive.
June 21
It is hot, hot, hot and don't forget humid! We are in the jungle. Patrick's ass is now revolting.
June 20
It is hot, hot, hot and don't forget humid! We are in the jungle. Patrick's ass revolts.
June 19
It is hot, hot, hot and don't forget humid! We are in Porto Maldonado. Got here at 7:30 or so after a not so bad bus ride (the Lonley Planet Guide suggested it would suck). We looked at the first hostal, too expensive, then the second hostal, too full, and then the third hostal. It was just right. Ok, it was expensive, but it did have hammocks, and jungle guides, so we stayed. There were an odd mix of inhabitants. There was Michael, the fung shui arborist with an interest in psychoactive jungle mixtures, and the Scottish fellow with a similar interest. After a few hours of lounging in the hammocks (there was nothing else to do in that heat) we met Rebecca the film student and Sruti & Sholpa the Indian cum Zambian cum Americans whom we went to the jungle with. We also went to dinner at the local restaurant called restaurant.In the early evening we enjoyed local entertainment. Two incredibly cute little girls were squeeling with delight as they sat on their mini cars, feet sprawled out to the side and dodging tourist legs as they wheeled down the hill out of control with only their little feet as breaks. Anyone watching couldn't help but smile.
An uninteresting meal rounded out the evening and we headed back to the hotel for an early night sleep. We were both completely exhausted.
-Bethany (& Patrick)
Saturday, June 18, 2011
We are alive (posting is hard)
June 16th (Santa Teresa- Santa Maria - Urubamba - Pisac)
The Plan: Wake up. Take a collectivo to Santa Maria. Catch a combi to Urubumba. A final combi to Pisac will give us the afternoon to enjoy the ruins.
Instead: A collectivo to Santa Maria. A three hour wait in the hot hot sun that prompts us to take any transport we can find to Urubumba. It happens to be a big truck with a tarp to sit on... bring on adventure. Patrick will recount the full day...
So we woke up. Sort of... it was a long process. Patrick was still sick and dry as a bone (he needed water badly). We had our fine breakfast of fried food - lots of that here. This time it was yummy eggs and plantains. We took our hour long collectivo ride down the fabulous valley to the small hamlet of Santa Maria. At long last we finally had an opportunity to wait! We had to wait for 3 hours for the bus, which turned out to be a truck. The back of a truck. The adventure began when Patrick saw 8 other people climbing into the back of a cargo vehicle. We could do that. So, I asked how much, and how long, and we hopped on. It was 10 soles each (about $3.50) to ride 5 hours to Urubamba (of course at the time, I thought it would be 3 hours - but I digress). It was certainly an adventure. The previous road had been washed out by the flood, and they were in the midst of building a new one. Pavement however was a long way away. So we bumped and jostled in the hot sun for a few hours until finally we hit real road. We thought that this was the easy stretch, but no, now we really started to climb in earnest. We leapt into the sky (ok, we motored up several switch backs) until we were a) very high b) in the clouds c) freezing and d) looking directly across at the glaciers. It was wicked cool! Bethany wrapped herself in everything she had - even breaking out some alpaca gifts (sorry Katie). Patrick was mostly just cold, but enjoying the view. As we descended things got warmer, but alas the sun was tired and we didn't truly get cozy until we were off the truck in Urubamba and onto a combi to Pisac (we hope - we may be going through Cusco).
Patrick (& Bethany)
June 15, 2011 (Agaus Calientes - Santa Terresa)
The bed was comfortable. The multiple wake up calls were unfortunate especially after our tiring day at Machu Pichu. The trusty rooster saw the sun and welcomed it with a cock-a-doodle-doo. You can't blame the rooster for doing what he is his business to do, however the hammers, business discussions outside our door and the jack hammer all before 8 am did not endear us to the hotel.
We had some final things to take care of in Aguas Callientes. After breakfast Patrick went off to an internet cafe to download some pictures while I went off to the tourist office hoping to take care of the 25% illegal "tax service" charge that had been added to our dinner bill the previous night. A dear young lady at iPeru went with me to the restaurant and spoke with the owner. I left with my funds returned and the satisfaction of warning at least one other couple about the crooked establishment. With so many wonderful people in Peru it is a shame that this bitter taste can come from one encounter. I can't say that Aguas Callientes was a pleasing town. We were both glad to be moving on to less touristy regions of the country.
A pleasant 2.5 hour walk along the rail tracks took us to Santa Teresa Hydro Electric Plant. Along the way we had views of Machu Picchu, other Inca ruins and the Urubamba river. While flowing, this mighty river is quite a sight. In the stagnant pools it is also quite a sight. I am so grateful for water treatment plants and regulation for sanitary disposal of human waste. I will leave the out the full description.
Today we were going to splurge. The Lonely Planet guide recommended the zip line and the world class thermal baths in Santa Teresa. The zip line was fun. We both enjoyed the views while dangling from the 2500 meters of cable and zipping above the canopy. The tour included a walk through the banana tree forest, an avacado fresh from the tree and a taste of coffee beans before roasting.
We put on our packs and walked back to town to enjoy a meal. We decided to also walk to the baths by the light of the full moon. It was a beautiful but extremely dusty road which lead to the "world class" baths. It turns out that a flood had wiped away the facilities along with our intended hotel. Never-the-less, we donned our bathing gear and joined the locals for a soak. Much refreshed, we found a man with a car who was willing to take us along the dusty road uphill and into town so that we could find a place to rest our weary heads.
Bethany (& Patrick)
June 14, 2011 (Aguas Calientes)
How to see Machu Picchu and nearly kill yourself
1) Hike the hell out of the day before
2) Catch a cold, or have a bad night's sleep
3) Get up at 4:30 am
4) Skip the bus, and breakfast
5) Walk 30 minutes, then hike 50 minutes straight up.
6) Sweat like a pig, and completely soak yourself
7) Freeze when you stop to wait in line
8) Choose to hike up for another 2 hours to Cerro Machu Picchu in the hot sun.
9) Actually take the 2 hours to see the ruins themselves (via the long trail)
9) Walk down again
We did fit in a nap before the Cerro Machu Picchu, and a little side trip to the Inca draw bridge, but it still kicked our butts. We went through 4.5 liters of water, several bananas and lots of cookies. We should have had the butter with the bread, but that is a mess not discussed.
Of course, the ruins were cool. They are old, and big, and they are Machu Picchu. The view is awesome, green mountains and a flowing river surround the site. It is a treat.
So, we survived. Time for dinner. Oh, dinner... the food was fine. We had an enchilada and a stuffed breaded hot pepper. We were nearly silent because we were both nearly brain-dead. I was especially out of it. But when the bill came, we found a 25% service fee added, and I got annoyed, Bethany got all fired up especially because they do this to every tourist. We went to the tourist protection office (which sucks - all they would do is write a letter to the busines). Anyway, we vowed to do something about it in the morning. Found a new hostal with good hot water. Took a shower and passed out.
Patrick (&Bethany)
June 13, 2011 (Ollantaytambo- Agaus Calientes)
The train left at 6:10 am. Groggily we packed up our bags and headed twenty minutes downhill to the train station. Peru Rail carried us in a classy vistadome train through the Urubumba valley (pretzels and drink included). The views were good although I have been spoiled by our several bus trips through the central highlands which were way better. After arriving in Aguas Calientes we sat up for breakfast. The near-sighted chess master who seemed a little slow but very friendly offered us hot eggs. Like most things in Aguas Calientes, they were overpriced.
We secured our tickets for tomorrows trip to Machu Picchu ($46 & $23) and then went off enjoy the day with a hike up Putacusi. The reading I had done about this hike indicated that it was quite steep with some ladders. They warned that if you find the first ladder a bit much you should probably choose to turn back. Lonely Planet recommended it as a hike that ends with wonderful views over Machu Picchu. Patrick and I started up the lovely trail wondering why this trail wasn't better advertised. It became apparent when we got to the first "ladder." I expect at the time of print for the Lonely Planet guide that there were full sets of ladders up the nearly vertical slope. Now there was a cable and some ladders with most rungs intact. From the bottom it looked a bit scary but not too bad. While Patrick stopped for a drink of water, I started up the ascent. Manuvering up the first lumps of dirt were a breeze and even the next section of rock. The first ladder gave me a bit of the heeeby geebies but I found reasonably sound hand and foot holds along the way. Patrick at this point had started up too. As I got to the terrifying zone, which you can't really realize from the bottom, he shouted up words of encouragement, "Looking good honey!" The rock was smooth with a single vertical crack to squish your feet into. You had to hold on tight to the cable and lean your weight back so that you would have enough friction between the soles of your shoes and the rock. I looked down... there would be some serious consequences if I slipped. I was shaking. I don't think I have ever been so terrified, but looking down was scarier than looking up so up I went taking each step carefully until I took the overhang hand hold onto the next ladder. I wiggled my way onto the first rung; first my hip bone and then I slammed my other shin onto the rung and levered my full weight onto the ladder. I tried not to think about the safety of the equipment, but at the same time tried to keep one piece of me on a ladder, one on a cable and if possible the rock face too. The few snapped rungs on the ladder seemed like nothing anymore and I zoomed up the ladder in hopes of a more secure spot to sit at the top to collect myself and stop the shaking. I sat there waiting and when Patrick's head popped above the ladder I was very happy we were both there. I believe he said something to the effect that that would give some New York Sky Scraper workers goosebumps. If I had gone up first, I would have turned around at that rock face. That probably would have been wise. The story turns out okay because, well I am here to write it. It was an adventure. Although the first incline was the worst, other ladders and narrow paths on any other day would have made my heart pound but my nerves were already shot.
We ate or picnic at the top and enjoyed the view across the valley for our first sights of Machu Pichu and then took the decent down. It happened to be an easier climb down than we both had anticipated, but we took it slow and very carefully. Relieved to have returned to town safe and sound, we returned to the hostel and enjoyed a much safer activity - napping.
In the early evening we enjoyed local entertainment. Two incredibly cute little girls were squealing with delight as they sat on their mini cars, feet sprawled out to the side and dodging tourist legs as they wheeled down the hill out of control with only their little feet as breaks. Anyone watching couldn't help but smile.
An uninteresting meal rounded out the evening and we headed back to the hotel for an early night sleep. We were both completely exhausted.
-Bethany (& Patrick)
June 12, 2011 (Ollantaytambo)
-Bad Breakfast - cold eggs, no salt, but good view of dancers in square
-Neat ruins with guide at Ollantaytambo. More up & down
-Fantastic Rodeo - 2 large beers, many large bulls, horses & a few dancers
-Dinner with great German couple Volker & Nina
-Early bed to catch 6:10 train to Aguas Calientes
June 11, 2011 (Chinchero - Ollantaytambo)
-Met Paulina at hotel (7ish)
-Bus with dance crew and band to Urubumba
-Watched a marvelous parade
-Goodies at bakery & met spacaed out Victoria
-Mototaxi to bus station (left the full water behind)
-Combi to Marras turnoff
-Met Andreas from Koblenz Germany who shared a taxi with us to Marras
-Met unpleasant Australian who we did not share a taxi with
-Shared taxi with Andreas to Salinas salt mines
-Shared taxi with Andreas to Moray ruins (Incan agricultural testing), Oreo game in the center of the terrace
-Back to Urubumba to catch a combi to Ollantaytambo
-Festival going on at Ollantaytambo
-Bethany tummy sick & to bed early. Patrick watched fireworks and burning log and dancing. Noises from wedding music all night long intermixed with firework blasts.
June 10, 2011 (Cusco- Chinchero)
Another terrace breakfast to start a day in Cusco. Hot showers were a welcome treat. Breakfast #2 was cake & pastries and some crazy good chicken & egg empanadas. We had heard of the chocolate museum from a couple at Victor Victoria who raved about it, so we went. Who knew that Bethany liked chocolate? Anyway... the museum was great, we had chocolate tea (that may have caused great agita to Bethany's innards) and bought a few truffles. The cathedral was all that was left on our list, so we fought past the second parade of traditionally dressed dancing school children and saw what turned out to be three churches welded together. After lunch we decided to split town, and hopped on a bus for Chinchero. We found our hotel, dropped our bags and went to the ruins and the local church. For some strange reason we were gripped by shopping fever (a rarity for us) and we bought all sorts of artisan crafts. The Peruvians seem to be in constant celebration for a group of musicians marched their way through the market. It seems we find musicians and dancing wherever we go. This wasn't the only time we would see this band. After cooking a dinner at our hostel we went for a walk through town and again found ourselves drawn toward the sounds of festivity. Around one corner, and then the next and we were amongst the happy celebrations. Two dancers took Bethany's hands and she was immersed in the celebration too. With a bit more convincing, Patrick was out busting a move too. The band had to move on down the street. Before departing our new friends embraced us and smiled. Bethany's Peruvian dancing partner was quite a riot and full of life. When he saw that Bethany had a handbag that was made in his hometown, he hugged it, hugged Bethany and the whole group of us were laughing. Next thing we knew, we agreed to go to Urubamba at 7 am to start dancing at 8, and who knows what will be next.
Patrick (&Bethany)
June 9, 2011 (Cusco)
Breakfast on the terrace seems like a good way to start the day. Even if it is only bread, jam & tea. The sun was warm, the cat was friendly, and we were ready to go. So go we did. We picked up some nicely folded CLEAN laundry. It was delightful. We then started to work our way down the Tourist Ticket. #1 - the art museum. Three small rooms of nice paintings. #2 the history museum. 10 rooms of well, stuff. Energy sapping, slow moving stuff. #3 Lunch (not really on the turist ticket) Victor Victoria had some good grub & some great guac. #4 The popular art museum (after a big old nap) was great! All sorts of weird figurines, diaramas, and scupltures. Particularly there was a spoon & fork nativity that was wild. Last but not least (ok, maybe least) was the Qorikancha museum. Some pottery, some dead people, some freaky skulls (think Japanese bound feet, but worse) and a weird exit that put us in the middle of a field. Now you think this would be a full day, but there is more. There was a parade of traditionally dressed dancing school children that just happened by. That was cool, and then we went off to Qorichanka site for some impressive Incan ruins and neat modern art. Next up it was time for a drink. Of course, there were hundreds of children dancing in the main square after the parade so we stopped to watch, play with the camera and get cold.
This brings us to the Cross Keys Pub. You get 2 for 1 drinks at happy hour. It was time to try a pisco sour, so we got two (for the price of one). We sat in the comfy chairs to enjoy our beverages and catch up on email. Next it was time to try something else. You know, if you get two for one, you might as well try two different drinks. Happy hour in Peru is slightly different. It turns out you get two of only the same drink for the price of one. So we were rather surprised to get 4 drinks delivered the table. We managed. Anyway, then it was time for some dinner. We ended up at an odd place where the waiters were wearing jester hats, and half the clientelle were stuffed animals, and the menus were children's books. Odd, but enjoyable. That was a full day.
Patrick (&Bethany)
June 8, 2011
Just as I had begun to wonder why we had decided to take the 10 hour bus trip along this dusty goat path, the bus passed through the fields. The view opened up and we could see for miles. A quaint village was nestled at the bottom of the valley. Beyond that rose a row of green mountains. Peeking their snow capped tops above those mountains stood craggy majestic peaks. We zig zagged through the switchbacks past cute huts with grass thatched roofs until we were tucked into that little valley we had seen from above. We ate with the locals in the town of Chumbes before stepping back into the bus to continue our journey. This journey is not for those who are nervous about heights or have anyone with a tiny bladder, but for the views it is unparalleled.
Bethany (&Patrick)
The Plan: Wake up. Take a collectivo to Santa Maria. Catch a combi to Urubumba. A final combi to Pisac will give us the afternoon to enjoy the ruins.
Instead: A collectivo to Santa Maria. A three hour wait in the hot hot sun that prompts us to take any transport we can find to Urubumba. It happens to be a big truck with a tarp to sit on... bring on adventure. Patrick will recount the full day...
So we woke up. Sort of... it was a long process. Patrick was still sick and dry as a bone (he needed water badly). We had our fine breakfast of fried food - lots of that here. This time it was yummy eggs and plantains. We took our hour long collectivo ride down the fabulous valley to the small hamlet of Santa Maria. At long last we finally had an opportunity to wait! We had to wait for 3 hours for the bus, which turned out to be a truck. The back of a truck. The adventure began when Patrick saw 8 other people climbing into the back of a cargo vehicle. We could do that. So, I asked how much, and how long, and we hopped on. It was 10 soles each (about $3.50) to ride 5 hours to Urubamba (of course at the time, I thought it would be 3 hours - but I digress). It was certainly an adventure. The previous road had been washed out by the flood, and they were in the midst of building a new one. Pavement however was a long way away. So we bumped and jostled in the hot sun for a few hours until finally we hit real road. We thought that this was the easy stretch, but no, now we really started to climb in earnest. We leapt into the sky (ok, we motored up several switch backs) until we were a) very high b) in the clouds c) freezing and d) looking directly across at the glaciers. It was wicked cool! Bethany wrapped herself in everything she had - even breaking out some alpaca gifts (sorry Katie). Patrick was mostly just cold, but enjoying the view. As we descended things got warmer, but alas the sun was tired and we didn't truly get cozy until we were off the truck in Urubamba and onto a combi to Pisac (we hope - we may be going through Cusco).
Patrick (& Bethany)
June 15, 2011 (Agaus Calientes - Santa Terresa)
The bed was comfortable. The multiple wake up calls were unfortunate especially after our tiring day at Machu Pichu. The trusty rooster saw the sun and welcomed it with a cock-a-doodle-doo. You can't blame the rooster for doing what he is his business to do, however the hammers, business discussions outside our door and the jack hammer all before 8 am did not endear us to the hotel.
We had some final things to take care of in Aguas Callientes. After breakfast Patrick went off to an internet cafe to download some pictures while I went off to the tourist office hoping to take care of the 25% illegal "tax service" charge that had been added to our dinner bill the previous night. A dear young lady at iPeru went with me to the restaurant and spoke with the owner. I left with my funds returned and the satisfaction of warning at least one other couple about the crooked establishment. With so many wonderful people in Peru it is a shame that this bitter taste can come from one encounter. I can't say that Aguas Callientes was a pleasing town. We were both glad to be moving on to less touristy regions of the country.
A pleasant 2.5 hour walk along the rail tracks took us to Santa Teresa Hydro Electric Plant. Along the way we had views of Machu Picchu, other Inca ruins and the Urubamba river. While flowing, this mighty river is quite a sight. In the stagnant pools it is also quite a sight. I am so grateful for water treatment plants and regulation for sanitary disposal of human waste. I will leave the out the full description.
Today we were going to splurge. The Lonely Planet guide recommended the zip line and the world class thermal baths in Santa Teresa. The zip line was fun. We both enjoyed the views while dangling from the 2500 meters of cable and zipping above the canopy. The tour included a walk through the banana tree forest, an avacado fresh from the tree and a taste of coffee beans before roasting.
We put on our packs and walked back to town to enjoy a meal. We decided to also walk to the baths by the light of the full moon. It was a beautiful but extremely dusty road which lead to the "world class" baths. It turns out that a flood had wiped away the facilities along with our intended hotel. Never-the-less, we donned our bathing gear and joined the locals for a soak. Much refreshed, we found a man with a car who was willing to take us along the dusty road uphill and into town so that we could find a place to rest our weary heads.
Bethany (& Patrick)
June 14, 2011 (Aguas Calientes)
How to see Machu Picchu and nearly kill yourself
1) Hike the hell out of the day before
2) Catch a cold, or have a bad night's sleep
3) Get up at 4:30 am
4) Skip the bus, and breakfast
5) Walk 30 minutes, then hike 50 minutes straight up.
6) Sweat like a pig, and completely soak yourself
7) Freeze when you stop to wait in line
8) Choose to hike up for another 2 hours to Cerro Machu Picchu in the hot sun.
9) Actually take the 2 hours to see the ruins themselves (via the long trail)
9) Walk down again
We did fit in a nap before the Cerro Machu Picchu, and a little side trip to the Inca draw bridge, but it still kicked our butts. We went through 4.5 liters of water, several bananas and lots of cookies. We should have had the butter with the bread, but that is a mess not discussed.
Of course, the ruins were cool. They are old, and big, and they are Machu Picchu. The view is awesome, green mountains and a flowing river surround the site. It is a treat.
So, we survived. Time for dinner. Oh, dinner... the food was fine. We had an enchilada and a stuffed breaded hot pepper. We were nearly silent because we were both nearly brain-dead. I was especially out of it. But when the bill came, we found a 25% service fee added, and I got annoyed, Bethany got all fired up especially because they do this to every tourist. We went to the tourist protection office (which sucks - all they would do is write a letter to the busines). Anyway, we vowed to do something about it in the morning. Found a new hostal with good hot water. Took a shower and passed out.
Patrick (&Bethany)
June 13, 2011 (Ollantaytambo- Agaus Calientes)
The train left at 6:10 am. Groggily we packed up our bags and headed twenty minutes downhill to the train station. Peru Rail carried us in a classy vistadome train through the Urubumba valley (pretzels and drink included). The views were good although I have been spoiled by our several bus trips through the central highlands which were way better. After arriving in Aguas Calientes we sat up for breakfast. The near-sighted chess master who seemed a little slow but very friendly offered us hot eggs. Like most things in Aguas Calientes, they were overpriced.
We secured our tickets for tomorrows trip to Machu Picchu ($46 & $23) and then went off enjoy the day with a hike up Putacusi. The reading I had done about this hike indicated that it was quite steep with some ladders. They warned that if you find the first ladder a bit much you should probably choose to turn back. Lonely Planet recommended it as a hike that ends with wonderful views over Machu Picchu. Patrick and I started up the lovely trail wondering why this trail wasn't better advertised. It became apparent when we got to the first "ladder." I expect at the time of print for the Lonely Planet guide that there were full sets of ladders up the nearly vertical slope. Now there was a cable and some ladders with most rungs intact. From the bottom it looked a bit scary but not too bad. While Patrick stopped for a drink of water, I started up the ascent. Manuvering up the first lumps of dirt were a breeze and even the next section of rock. The first ladder gave me a bit of the heeeby geebies but I found reasonably sound hand and foot holds along the way. Patrick at this point had started up too. As I got to the terrifying zone, which you can't really realize from the bottom, he shouted up words of encouragement, "Looking good honey!" The rock was smooth with a single vertical crack to squish your feet into. You had to hold on tight to the cable and lean your weight back so that you would have enough friction between the soles of your shoes and the rock. I looked down... there would be some serious consequences if I slipped. I was shaking. I don't think I have ever been so terrified, but looking down was scarier than looking up so up I went taking each step carefully until I took the overhang hand hold onto the next ladder. I wiggled my way onto the first rung; first my hip bone and then I slammed my other shin onto the rung and levered my full weight onto the ladder. I tried not to think about the safety of the equipment, but at the same time tried to keep one piece of me on a ladder, one on a cable and if possible the rock face too. The few snapped rungs on the ladder seemed like nothing anymore and I zoomed up the ladder in hopes of a more secure spot to sit at the top to collect myself and stop the shaking. I sat there waiting and when Patrick's head popped above the ladder I was very happy we were both there. I believe he said something to the effect that that would give some New York Sky Scraper workers goosebumps. If I had gone up first, I would have turned around at that rock face. That probably would have been wise. The story turns out okay because, well I am here to write it. It was an adventure. Although the first incline was the worst, other ladders and narrow paths on any other day would have made my heart pound but my nerves were already shot.
We ate or picnic at the top and enjoyed the view across the valley for our first sights of Machu Pichu and then took the decent down. It happened to be an easier climb down than we both had anticipated, but we took it slow and very carefully. Relieved to have returned to town safe and sound, we returned to the hostel and enjoyed a much safer activity - napping.
In the early evening we enjoyed local entertainment. Two incredibly cute little girls were squealing with delight as they sat on their mini cars, feet sprawled out to the side and dodging tourist legs as they wheeled down the hill out of control with only their little feet as breaks. Anyone watching couldn't help but smile.
An uninteresting meal rounded out the evening and we headed back to the hotel for an early night sleep. We were both completely exhausted.
-Bethany (& Patrick)
June 12, 2011 (Ollantaytambo)
-Bad Breakfast - cold eggs, no salt, but good view of dancers in square
-Neat ruins with guide at Ollantaytambo. More up & down
-Fantastic Rodeo - 2 large beers, many large bulls, horses & a few dancers
-Dinner with great German couple Volker & Nina
-Early bed to catch 6:10 train to Aguas Calientes
June 11, 2011 (Chinchero - Ollantaytambo)
-Met Paulina at hotel (7ish)
-Bus with dance crew and band to Urubumba
-Watched a marvelous parade
-Goodies at bakery & met spacaed out Victoria
-Mototaxi to bus station (left the full water behind)
-Combi to Marras turnoff
-Met Andreas from Koblenz Germany who shared a taxi with us to Marras
-Met unpleasant Australian who we did not share a taxi with
-Shared taxi with Andreas to Salinas salt mines
-Shared taxi with Andreas to Moray ruins (Incan agricultural testing), Oreo game in the center of the terrace
-Festival going on at Ollantaytambo
-Bethany tummy sick & to bed early. Patrick watched fireworks and burning log and dancing. Noises from wedding music all night long intermixed with firework blasts.
June 10, 2011 (Cusco- Chinchero)
Another terrace breakfast to start a day in Cusco. Hot showers were a welcome treat. Breakfast #2 was cake & pastries and some crazy good chicken & egg empanadas. We had heard of the chocolate museum from a couple at Victor Victoria who raved about it, so we went. Who knew that Bethany liked chocolate? Anyway... the museum was great, we had chocolate tea (that may have caused great agita to Bethany's innards) and bought a few truffles. The cathedral was all that was left on our list, so we fought past the second parade of traditionally dressed dancing school children and saw what turned out to be three churches welded together. After lunch we decided to split town, and hopped on a bus for Chinchero. We found our hotel, dropped our bags and went to the ruins and the local church. For some strange reason we were gripped by shopping fever (a rarity for us) and we bought all sorts of artisan crafts. The Peruvians seem to be in constant celebration for a group of musicians marched their way through the market. It seems we find musicians and dancing wherever we go. This wasn't the only time we would see this band. After cooking a dinner at our hostel we went for a walk through town and again found ourselves drawn toward the sounds of festivity. Around one corner, and then the next and we were amongst the happy celebrations. Two dancers took Bethany's hands and she was immersed in the celebration too. With a bit more convincing, Patrick was out busting a move too. The band had to move on down the street. Before departing our new friends embraced us and smiled. Bethany's Peruvian dancing partner was quite a riot and full of life. When he saw that Bethany had a handbag that was made in his hometown, he hugged it, hugged Bethany and the whole group of us were laughing. Next thing we knew, we agreed to go to Urubamba at 7 am to start dancing at 8, and who knows what will be next.
Patrick (&Bethany)
June 9, 2011 (Cusco)
Breakfast on the terrace seems like a good way to start the day. Even if it is only bread, jam & tea. The sun was warm, the cat was friendly, and we were ready to go. So go we did. We picked up some nicely folded CLEAN laundry. It was delightful. We then started to work our way down the Tourist Ticket. #1 - the art museum. Three small rooms of nice paintings. #2 the history museum. 10 rooms of well, stuff. Energy sapping, slow moving stuff. #3 Lunch (not really on the turist ticket) Victor Victoria had some good grub & some great guac. #4 The popular art museum (after a big old nap) was great! All sorts of weird figurines, diaramas, and scupltures. Particularly there was a spoon & fork nativity that was wild. Last but not least (ok, maybe least) was the Qorikancha museum. Some pottery, some dead people, some freaky skulls (think Japanese bound feet, but worse) and a weird exit that put us in the middle of a field. Now you think this would be a full day, but there is more. There was a parade of traditionally dressed dancing school children that just happened by. That was cool, and then we went off to Qorichanka site for some impressive Incan ruins and neat modern art. Next up it was time for a drink. Of course, there were hundreds of children dancing in the main square after the parade so we stopped to watch, play with the camera and get cold.
This brings us to the Cross Keys Pub. You get 2 for 1 drinks at happy hour. It was time to try a pisco sour, so we got two (for the price of one). We sat in the comfy chairs to enjoy our beverages and catch up on email. Next it was time to try something else. You know, if you get two for one, you might as well try two different drinks. Happy hour in Peru is slightly different. It turns out you get two of only the same drink for the price of one. So we were rather surprised to get 4 drinks delivered the table. We managed. Anyway, then it was time for some dinner. We ended up at an odd place where the waiters were wearing jester hats, and half the clientelle were stuffed animals, and the menus were children's books. Odd, but enjoyable. That was a full day.
Patrick (&Bethany)
June 8, 2011
Just as I had begun to wonder why we had decided to take the 10 hour bus trip along this dusty goat path, the bus passed through the fields. The view opened up and we could see for miles. A quaint village was nestled at the bottom of the valley. Beyond that rose a row of green mountains. Peeking their snow capped tops above those mountains stood craggy majestic peaks. We zig zagged through the switchbacks past cute huts with grass thatched roofs until we were tucked into that little valley we had seen from above. We ate with the locals in the town of Chumbes before stepping back into the bus to continue our journey. This journey is not for those who are nervous about heights or have anyone with a tiny bladder, but for the views it is unparalleled.
Bethany (&Patrick)
Friday, June 3, 2011
Time Flies
Tuesday May 31st Ayacucho
I am feeling mucho mucho better. After escaping the hotel seemingly ventilated by combining the exhausts of several two stroke engines, and "passing" my stomach bug (with the aid of modern medicine) we have found a most pleasing spot to recline.
Yes, we are on the rooftop terrace of the Hosteria La Criollonesa. It is great. The beds are comfy, the water is not just warm, but actually hot. We have a great view of the city for the sunrise and three church steeples are within a stone's throw.
After a lazy meander through the streets and a tasty lunch of guinea pig we are now lounging about, drinking Peru's finest. It is once again, a ridiculously nice day- cool and sunny. Deceptively so, as we both got a little bit of a burn. Don't worry the aformentioned beer will cure what ails us. This is good. Now if they only had an elevator up to this fourth floor...
Patrick (&Bethany)
Monday May 30th Bumpy from Huancayo
Today is good. I am sure that I shall have have no more unintended bowel movements! Yay! Good thing too, time for a ten hour bus ride. Unfortunately or perhaps fortunately (depending on the vicissitudes of my alimentary canal) we missed breakfast, but our hunger pains we easily distracted by the view out of the other side of the bus. Yes, the side we were not seated on. Hrumph! I hope that those unconscious in the good seats could see through their closed eyelids the grandeur we were passing. We got a good view of a lot of rock wall.
All was not lost, there were many streams that crossed the road, or perhaps which the crossed and a few interesting moments. Most buses in the US don't have shovels or pick axes, or three drivers. Hmm... ours did. All came into use. The first time we stopped, I got nervous, after seeing what was considered safe, anything the driver felt was questionable, was probably certain death. It just looked like a puddle, until I saw the dirt on the right side had given way (to the bottom of an endless chasm). They looked at it a bit, then they decided to do some preventative maintenance and divert the water away. We then proceeded and did not die. The second time was worse. Clearly the road had started to give way prior to our arrival. We would surely be the straw that broke the camel's back. But out came the pick axe to move a large boulder, and viola the road was wider and passable. Oh boy. Lastly, one driver hurriedly closed a window in front of us. We did the same not knowing what was going on. Well, that became clear in a moment. That window had opened out slightly. We didn't have room for slightly. The picture tells it all. Lets just say that they build to tight tolerances here.
(PICTURES WILL FOLLOW WHEN WE HAVE A FASTER CONNECTION)
Anyway, we were starving and road weary (ie. nearly dead) so, we found a seemingly nice spot to stay and went to get some pizza. Fed and tired, we returned to our Hostal Ayacuchano and tried to get ready for bed. After a few dizzying moments, we realized that we were being gassed. The windowless room was seemingly a vaccuumn for the exhaust of the 80 zillion buses, taxis and carbon bursting three wheeled noise machines. Headaches in tow, we left for a new hotel.
Patrick (&Bethany)
Sunday May 29th
Patrick's Shorts Entry
Nevermind the title. Stayed in bed all day. Sucked. Except for a nice outing to the Parque de la Identidad Huanca and a transfere to a nice new hotel (Hotel Los Balcones) which was cheaper than our crappy Casa de Abuela, this day was crap- literally.
Bethany's day
Brutal night's sleep. I am quite sure Patrick nearly died on several occasions. I couldn't sleep for all of the the wheezing and noises that were coming from him. I gave up on any hope of sleep and went to breakfast, where I met Mitsuko. She had exactly the same plans for her day, so we decided to pair up and head into town. The electricity was out across the city, so we ended up carrying our backpacks full of laundry all day. We scoped out the treasures of the market, but found no socks for Patrick (very specific socks he wanted). Lunch was disappointing, no yummy cebiche this time. Made a trip to the grocery store, and bus station for tickets and then a slight error in navigation on the return trip led to a police ride home. I went to go check on the corpse, but Patrick was chipper (Patrick: There are advantages to being able to edit this blog too). We gathered up our things (in the dark, dank cave that was our room) and went to the park, to the new hotel (wonderful!) and to do laundry and then have some really dry fried trout and potatoes for dinner. At last though, a marvelous comfortable bed.
Bethany (&Patrick)
Saturday, May 28, 2011
Huancayo - Spanish Lessons
Friday May 27
Pottery Market in Aco- It was a rather disappointing morning. Our guide Lucho said he would take us to a pottery craft market on Friday morning. He had forgotten but when we had caught up with him at 9:30am he was willing to take us. The bummer was that the market was only open until 10. When our taxi finally got us there it was 10:15 and you could barely tell that a market had even been there. Lucho instead took us to some peoples homes where they did the pottery. It was a bit of a let down. On the bright side, the trip up the switchbacks to the small town was quite nice. Again our afternoon was spent in class. We zipped through conjugation of past, present and future tenses. Overall the language classes were very good. I now need to look over all my notes. I am having a terrible time remembering the words. I mix up vowel sounds regularly.
Thursday May 26
Tore Tores Hike - This time we actually made it to our destination. I am quite sure we didn't take the correct path, but we did find the interesting geological formations. The forecast was rain but we didn't see a drop.
This afternoon our Spanish language class was in the kitchen. We made a tasty Peruvian dinner of potatoes with a delightful spicy cheese sauce.
Wednesday May 25
Ridge Hike - Our favorite mode of transport in town is to take the combi. It is a must to travel with the locals in the combis. A doorman hangs from the side door of the bus yelling its destination. You flag it down, the driver pulls to the curb and the doorman hurries you into the crowded vehicle. Today we listened for the doorman who called "Chupaca, Chupaca,Chupaca." It has an especially fun ring to it. The ride was about a half hour. In Chupaca we switched to a colectivo which is a shared taxi. We sat in the backseat, but before the taxi left there were several people squished into the trunk as well. The car climbed up the dusty mountain road to Ahuac where we got out so that we could do the hike along the ridge that overlooked the Laguna de Nahuinpuquito and the valley below. We followed the path to some Incan ruins and then down into the quaint town of Huarisca. Another series of public transportation connections brought us back to Huancayo in time for lunch and then off to Spanish class again in the afternoon.
Tuesday May 24
Artisan Tour - We took a combi toward Hualhuas. This town is known for its weaving. In one shop a lady showed us how she spun and died the Alpaca wool. In another shop we watched a craftsman operate a hand loom. The textiles were very nice and the Alpaca wool feels so nice. We then walked to the next town over to Nelly's home. She wasn't there so we walked away. It was at least 6 blocks later when a younger woman caught us and brought us back to Nelly. Apparently she had been chasing us for blocks so that we would come to visit. She let us in to show us her silver craft.
Monday May 23
Hiking into the Mountains - We set out in the morning with intentions of hiking to Tore Tores, a geological formation near to Huancayo, but ended up taking a different turn to climb to the top of a mountain that overlooked the city. Thankfully a local escorted us for the first part of the journey. He shooed the bulls and cows off of the path and out of our way so we would have safe passage. Just before cresting the top of the mountain we were greeted by a pair of barking dogs. We decided that they could claim the mountain as theirs and then turned around for our decent back to the hotel. The sunshine was out and it was a lovely morning. In the afternoon we started our language course.
Sunday May 22
A trip to the Special Sunday Huancayo Market- It is blocks and blocks and blocks of all sorts of wares. There are beautiful artisan made crafts at one end, food vendors all about and on the far end is a flea market with everything from buckets of rusty nails to a spiral staircases, electronics and blankets. I stepped outside of my comfort zone and tried cerviche for lunch. It is raw fish that is put in lime juice to "cook" it. We pulled up a chair to the bench at a tent stall. I timidly took my first bite after watching Alex (a French traveler we had met) and Patrick take their first bites. They seem pleased so I shut my eyes and put a spoonful in my mouth. It was tasty! I hope I can enjoy cherviche again before we the end of our trip.
Finding the train station- A historic train trip goes from Huancayo to Lima every three weeks. We wanted to find out more so went in search of the station. We asked a lady on the road how we would get to the station. She wasn't sure so asked a man passing by. He walked us to the station. What helpful folk! When it wasn't open he asked us to join him for a drink. All of our conversation was in Spanish. My Spanish is limited to a few words, "No hable espanol." Patrick understands more but it is pretty limited, yet we communicated. We walked a ways and turned into a dusty courtyard where people from the neighbourhood were playing a game of volleyball. Our new friend called to one of the players. She slipped out of the game to fetch us a beer, a glass and three stools from the small corner store. We sat and laughed and conversed until dusk. It was such a pleasant evening.
Saturday May 21
Instead of traveling the road between Huancavelica and Huancayo by night, we took the midday bus trip along the gorgeous road that barely hangs on the the mountain edges. It was not a bus ride for the faint of heart. At some points, the drops to the valley below are hundreds of feet yet the bus tires were only a foot or so from the edge of the road. The vistas were magnificent. Although I wanted to shut my eyes to catch some rest, I couldn't stand to give up a minute looking out the window. I was in awe for the entire four hour trip. I wouldn't be surprised if this bus trip makes it to the top of the list of highlights for our trip.
We were on a well utilized public bus. I was so glad we had seats. Others had to stand for hours. One of the men who was standing started loudly talking to the captive audience he had in the bus. He went on for probably an hour about some sort of snake oil that would cure all your ailments. I am still amazed that he was able to sell his wares. He was a well dressed man and people were buying so I can only assume that he is doing well for himself. Patrick can't believe that he was able to speak about this one bottle of stuff without barely a pause for a full hour.
The third largest city in Peru, Huancayo is much busier than Huancavelica. We arrived in the late afternoon on Saturday and will be staying until either Sunday or Monday when we will leave to go to Ayacucho. We are staying at the Casa de la Abula (Grandma's House) where many international travelers have been passing through. We are studying Spanish in the afternoons and visiting neigbouring small communities, hiking or exploring in the mornings.
Bethany (& Patrick)
Pottery Market in Aco- It was a rather disappointing morning. Our guide Lucho said he would take us to a pottery craft market on Friday morning. He had forgotten but when we had caught up with him at 9:30am he was willing to take us. The bummer was that the market was only open until 10. When our taxi finally got us there it was 10:15 and you could barely tell that a market had even been there. Lucho instead took us to some peoples homes where they did the pottery. It was a bit of a let down. On the bright side, the trip up the switchbacks to the small town was quite nice. Again our afternoon was spent in class. We zipped through conjugation of past, present and future tenses. Overall the language classes were very good. I now need to look over all my notes. I am having a terrible time remembering the words. I mix up vowel sounds regularly.
Thursday May 26
Tore Tores Hike - This time we actually made it to our destination. I am quite sure we didn't take the correct path, but we did find the interesting geological formations. The forecast was rain but we didn't see a drop.
This afternoon our Spanish language class was in the kitchen. We made a tasty Peruvian dinner of potatoes with a delightful spicy cheese sauce.
Wednesday May 25
Ridge Hike - Our favorite mode of transport in town is to take the combi. It is a must to travel with the locals in the combis. A doorman hangs from the side door of the bus yelling its destination. You flag it down, the driver pulls to the curb and the doorman hurries you into the crowded vehicle. Today we listened for the doorman who called "Chupaca, Chupaca,Chupaca." It has an especially fun ring to it. The ride was about a half hour. In Chupaca we switched to a colectivo which is a shared taxi. We sat in the backseat, but before the taxi left there were several people squished into the trunk as well. The car climbed up the dusty mountain road to Ahuac where we got out so that we could do the hike along the ridge that overlooked the Laguna de Nahuinpuquito and the valley below. We followed the path to some Incan ruins and then down into the quaint town of Huarisca. Another series of public transportation connections brought us back to Huancayo in time for lunch and then off to Spanish class again in the afternoon.
Tuesday May 24
Artisan Tour - We took a combi toward Hualhuas. This town is known for its weaving. In one shop a lady showed us how she spun and died the Alpaca wool. In another shop we watched a craftsman operate a hand loom. The textiles were very nice and the Alpaca wool feels so nice. We then walked to the next town over to Nelly's home. She wasn't there so we walked away. It was at least 6 blocks later when a younger woman caught us and brought us back to Nelly. Apparently she had been chasing us for blocks so that we would come to visit. She let us in to show us her silver craft.
Monday May 23
Hiking into the Mountains - We set out in the morning with intentions of hiking to Tore Tores, a geological formation near to Huancayo, but ended up taking a different turn to climb to the top of a mountain that overlooked the city. Thankfully a local escorted us for the first part of the journey. He shooed the bulls and cows off of the path and out of our way so we would have safe passage. Just before cresting the top of the mountain we were greeted by a pair of barking dogs. We decided that they could claim the mountain as theirs and then turned around for our decent back to the hotel. The sunshine was out and it was a lovely morning. In the afternoon we started our language course.
Sunday May 22
A trip to the Special Sunday Huancayo Market- It is blocks and blocks and blocks of all sorts of wares. There are beautiful artisan made crafts at one end, food vendors all about and on the far end is a flea market with everything from buckets of rusty nails to a spiral staircases, electronics and blankets. I stepped outside of my comfort zone and tried cerviche for lunch. It is raw fish that is put in lime juice to "cook" it. We pulled up a chair to the bench at a tent stall. I timidly took my first bite after watching Alex (a French traveler we had met) and Patrick take their first bites. They seem pleased so I shut my eyes and put a spoonful in my mouth. It was tasty! I hope I can enjoy cherviche again before we the end of our trip.
Finding the train station- A historic train trip goes from Huancayo to Lima every three weeks. We wanted to find out more so went in search of the station. We asked a lady on the road how we would get to the station. She wasn't sure so asked a man passing by. He walked us to the station. What helpful folk! When it wasn't open he asked us to join him for a drink. All of our conversation was in Spanish. My Spanish is limited to a few words, "No hable espanol." Patrick understands more but it is pretty limited, yet we communicated. We walked a ways and turned into a dusty courtyard where people from the neighbourhood were playing a game of volleyball. Our new friend called to one of the players. She slipped out of the game to fetch us a beer, a glass and three stools from the small corner store. We sat and laughed and conversed until dusk. It was such a pleasant evening.
Saturday May 21
Instead of traveling the road between Huancavelica and Huancayo by night, we took the midday bus trip along the gorgeous road that barely hangs on the the mountain edges. It was not a bus ride for the faint of heart. At some points, the drops to the valley below are hundreds of feet yet the bus tires were only a foot or so from the edge of the road. The vistas were magnificent. Although I wanted to shut my eyes to catch some rest, I couldn't stand to give up a minute looking out the window. I was in awe for the entire four hour trip. I wouldn't be surprised if this bus trip makes it to the top of the list of highlights for our trip.
The third largest city in Peru, Huancayo is much busier than Huancavelica. We arrived in the late afternoon on Saturday and will be staying until either Sunday or Monday when we will leave to go to Ayacucho. We are staying at the Casa de la Abula (Grandma's House) where many international travelers have been passing through. We are studying Spanish in the afternoons and visiting neigbouring small communities, hiking or exploring in the mornings.
Bethany (& Patrick)
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