The Plan: Wake up. Take a collectivo to Santa Maria. Catch a combi to Urubumba. A final combi to Pisac will give us the afternoon to enjoy the ruins.
Instead: A collectivo to Santa Maria. A three hour wait in the hot hot sun that prompts us to take any transport we can find to Urubumba. It happens to be a big truck with a tarp to sit on... bring on adventure. Patrick will recount the full day...
So we woke up. Sort of... it was a long process. Patrick was still sick and dry as a bone (he needed water badly). We had our fine breakfast of fried food - lots of that here. This time it was yummy eggs and plantains. We took our hour long collectivo ride down the fabulous valley to the small hamlet of Santa Maria. At long last we finally had an opportunity to wait! We had to wait for 3 hours for the bus, which turned out to be a truck. The back of a truck. The adventure began when Patrick saw 8 other people climbing into the back of a cargo vehicle. We could do that. So, I asked how much, and how long, and we hopped on. It was 10 soles each (about $3.50) to ride 5 hours to Urubamba (of course at the time, I thought it would be 3 hours - but I digress). It was certainly an adventure. The previous road had been washed out by the flood, and they were in the midst of building a new one. Pavement however was a long way away. So we bumped and jostled in the hot sun for a few hours until finally we hit real road. We thought that this was the easy stretch, but no, now we really started to climb in earnest. We leapt into the sky (ok, we motored up several switch backs) until we were a) very high b) in the clouds c) freezing and d) looking directly across at the glaciers. It was wicked cool! Bethany wrapped herself in everything she had - even breaking out some alpaca gifts (sorry Katie). Patrick was mostly just cold, but enjoying the view. As we descended things got warmer, but alas the sun was tired and we didn't truly get cozy until we were off the truck in Urubamba and onto a combi to Pisac (we hope - we may be going through Cusco).
Patrick (& Bethany)
June 15, 2011 (Agaus Calientes - Santa Terresa)
The bed was comfortable. The multiple wake up calls were unfortunate especially after our tiring day at Machu Pichu. The trusty rooster saw the sun and welcomed it with a cock-a-doodle-doo. You can't blame the rooster for doing what he is his business to do, however the hammers, business discussions outside our door and the jack hammer all before 8 am did not endear us to the hotel.
We had some final things to take care of in Aguas Callientes. After breakfast Patrick went off to an internet cafe to download some pictures while I went off to the tourist office hoping to take care of the 25% illegal "tax service" charge that had been added to our dinner bill the previous night. A dear young lady at iPeru went with me to the restaurant and spoke with the owner. I left with my funds returned and the satisfaction of warning at least one other couple about the crooked establishment. With so many wonderful people in Peru it is a shame that this bitter taste can come from one encounter. I can't say that Aguas Callientes was a pleasing town. We were both glad to be moving on to less touristy regions of the country.
A pleasant 2.5 hour walk along the rail tracks took us to Santa Teresa Hydro Electric Plant. Along the way we had views of Machu Picchu, other Inca ruins and the Urubamba river. While flowing, this mighty river is quite a sight. In the stagnant pools it is also quite a sight. I am so grateful for water treatment plants and regulation for sanitary disposal of human waste. I will leave the out the full description.
Today we were going to splurge. The Lonely Planet guide recommended the zip line and the world class thermal baths in Santa Teresa. The zip line was fun. We both enjoyed the views while dangling from the 2500 meters of cable and zipping above the canopy. The tour included a walk through the banana tree forest, an avacado fresh from the tree and a taste of coffee beans before roasting.
We put on our packs and walked back to town to enjoy a meal. We decided to also walk to the baths by the light of the full moon. It was a beautiful but extremely dusty road which lead to the "world class" baths. It turns out that a flood had wiped away the facilities along with our intended hotel. Never-the-less, we donned our bathing gear and joined the locals for a soak. Much refreshed, we found a man with a car who was willing to take us along the dusty road uphill and into town so that we could find a place to rest our weary heads.
Bethany (& Patrick)
June 14, 2011 (Aguas Calientes)
How to see Machu Picchu and nearly kill yourself
1) Hike the hell out of the day before
2) Catch a cold, or have a bad night's sleep
3) Get up at 4:30 am
4) Skip the bus, and breakfast
5) Walk 30 minutes, then hike 50 minutes straight up.
6) Sweat like a pig, and completely soak yourself
7) Freeze when you stop to wait in line
8) Choose to hike up for another 2 hours to Cerro Machu Picchu in the hot sun.
9) Actually take the 2 hours to see the ruins themselves (via the long trail)
9) Walk down again
We did fit in a nap before the Cerro Machu Picchu, and a little side trip to the Inca draw bridge, but it still kicked our butts. We went through 4.5 liters of water, several bananas and lots of cookies. We should have had the butter with the bread, but that is a mess not discussed.
Of course, the ruins were cool. They are old, and big, and they are Machu Picchu. The view is awesome, green mountains and a flowing river surround the site. It is a treat.
So, we survived. Time for dinner. Oh, dinner... the food was fine. We had an enchilada and a stuffed breaded hot pepper. We were nearly silent because we were both nearly brain-dead. I was especially out of it. But when the bill came, we found a 25% service fee added, and I got annoyed, Bethany got all fired up especially because they do this to every tourist. We went to the tourist protection office (which sucks - all they would do is write a letter to the busines). Anyway, we vowed to do something about it in the morning. Found a new hostal with good hot water. Took a shower and passed out.
Patrick (&Bethany)
June 13, 2011 (Ollantaytambo- Agaus Calientes)
The train left at 6:10 am. Groggily we packed up our bags and headed twenty minutes downhill to the train station. Peru Rail carried us in a classy vistadome train through the Urubumba valley (pretzels and drink included). The views were good although I have been spoiled by our several bus trips through the central highlands which were way better. After arriving in Aguas Calientes we sat up for breakfast. The near-sighted chess master who seemed a little slow but very friendly offered us hot eggs. Like most things in Aguas Calientes, they were overpriced.
We secured our tickets for tomorrows trip to Machu Picchu ($46 & $23) and then went off enjoy the day with a hike up Putacusi. The reading I had done about this hike indicated that it was quite steep with some ladders. They warned that if you find the first ladder a bit much you should probably choose to turn back. Lonely Planet recommended it as a hike that ends with wonderful views over Machu Picchu. Patrick and I started up the lovely trail wondering why this trail wasn't better advertised. It became apparent when we got to the first "ladder." I expect at the time of print for the Lonely Planet guide that there were full sets of ladders up the nearly vertical slope. Now there was a cable and some ladders with most rungs intact. From the bottom it looked a bit scary but not too bad. While Patrick stopped for a drink of water, I started up the ascent. Manuvering up the first lumps of dirt were a breeze and even the next section of rock. The first ladder gave me a bit of the heeeby geebies but I found reasonably sound hand and foot holds along the way. Patrick at this point had started up too. As I got to the terrifying zone, which you can't really realize from the bottom, he shouted up words of encouragement, "Looking good honey!" The rock was smooth with a single vertical crack to squish your feet into. You had to hold on tight to the cable and lean your weight back so that you would have enough friction between the soles of your shoes and the rock. I looked down... there would be some serious consequences if I slipped. I was shaking. I don't think I have ever been so terrified, but looking down was scarier than looking up so up I went taking each step carefully until I took the overhang hand hold onto the next ladder. I wiggled my way onto the first rung; first my hip bone and then I slammed my other shin onto the rung and levered my full weight onto the ladder. I tried not to think about the safety of the equipment, but at the same time tried to keep one piece of me on a ladder, one on a cable and if possible the rock face too. The few snapped rungs on the ladder seemed like nothing anymore and I zoomed up the ladder in hopes of a more secure spot to sit at the top to collect myself and stop the shaking. I sat there waiting and when Patrick's head popped above the ladder I was very happy we were both there. I believe he said something to the effect that that would give some New York Sky Scraper workers goosebumps. If I had gone up first, I would have turned around at that rock face. That probably would have been wise. The story turns out okay because, well I am here to write it. It was an adventure. Although the first incline was the worst, other ladders and narrow paths on any other day would have made my heart pound but my nerves were already shot.
We ate or picnic at the top and enjoyed the view across the valley for our first sights of Machu Pichu and then took the decent down. It happened to be an easier climb down than we both had anticipated, but we took it slow and very carefully. Relieved to have returned to town safe and sound, we returned to the hostel and enjoyed a much safer activity - napping.
In the early evening we enjoyed local entertainment. Two incredibly cute little girls were squealing with delight as they sat on their mini cars, feet sprawled out to the side and dodging tourist legs as they wheeled down the hill out of control with only their little feet as breaks. Anyone watching couldn't help but smile.
An uninteresting meal rounded out the evening and we headed back to the hotel for an early night sleep. We were both completely exhausted.
-Bethany (& Patrick)
June 12, 2011 (Ollantaytambo)
-Bad Breakfast - cold eggs, no salt, but good view of dancers in square
-Neat ruins with guide at Ollantaytambo. More up & down
-Fantastic Rodeo - 2 large beers, many large bulls, horses & a few dancers
-Dinner with great German couple Volker & Nina
-Early bed to catch 6:10 train to Aguas Calientes
June 11, 2011 (Chinchero - Ollantaytambo)
-Met Paulina at hotel (7ish)
-Bus with dance crew and band to Urubumba
-Watched a marvelous parade
-Goodies at bakery & met spacaed out Victoria
-Mototaxi to bus station (left the full water behind)
-Combi to Marras turnoff
-Met Andreas from Koblenz Germany who shared a taxi with us to Marras
-Met unpleasant Australian who we did not share a taxi with
-Shared taxi with Andreas to Salinas salt mines
-Shared taxi with Andreas to Moray ruins (Incan agricultural testing), Oreo game in the center of the terrace
-Festival going on at Ollantaytambo
-Bethany tummy sick & to bed early. Patrick watched fireworks and burning log and dancing. Noises from wedding music all night long intermixed with firework blasts.
June 10, 2011 (Cusco- Chinchero)
Another terrace breakfast to start a day in Cusco. Hot showers were a welcome treat. Breakfast #2 was cake & pastries and some crazy good chicken & egg empanadas. We had heard of the chocolate museum from a couple at Victor Victoria who raved about it, so we went. Who knew that Bethany liked chocolate? Anyway... the museum was great, we had chocolate tea (that may have caused great agita to Bethany's innards) and bought a few truffles. The cathedral was all that was left on our list, so we fought past the second parade of traditionally dressed dancing school children and saw what turned out to be three churches welded together. After lunch we decided to split town, and hopped on a bus for Chinchero. We found our hotel, dropped our bags and went to the ruins and the local church. For some strange reason we were gripped by shopping fever (a rarity for us) and we bought all sorts of artisan crafts. The Peruvians seem to be in constant celebration for a group of musicians marched their way through the market. It seems we find musicians and dancing wherever we go. This wasn't the only time we would see this band. After cooking a dinner at our hostel we went for a walk through town and again found ourselves drawn toward the sounds of festivity. Around one corner, and then the next and we were amongst the happy celebrations. Two dancers took Bethany's hands and she was immersed in the celebration too. With a bit more convincing, Patrick was out busting a move too. The band had to move on down the street. Before departing our new friends embraced us and smiled. Bethany's Peruvian dancing partner was quite a riot and full of life. When he saw that Bethany had a handbag that was made in his hometown, he hugged it, hugged Bethany and the whole group of us were laughing. Next thing we knew, we agreed to go to Urubamba at 7 am to start dancing at 8, and who knows what will be next.
Patrick (&Bethany)
June 9, 2011 (Cusco)
Breakfast on the terrace seems like a good way to start the day. Even if it is only bread, jam & tea. The sun was warm, the cat was friendly, and we were ready to go. So go we did. We picked up some nicely folded CLEAN laundry. It was delightful. We then started to work our way down the Tourist Ticket. #1 - the art museum. Three small rooms of nice paintings. #2 the history museum. 10 rooms of well, stuff. Energy sapping, slow moving stuff. #3 Lunch (not really on the turist ticket) Victor Victoria had some good grub & some great guac. #4 The popular art museum (after a big old nap) was great! All sorts of weird figurines, diaramas, and scupltures. Particularly there was a spoon & fork nativity that was wild. Last but not least (ok, maybe least) was the Qorikancha museum. Some pottery, some dead people, some freaky skulls (think Japanese bound feet, but worse) and a weird exit that put us in the middle of a field. Now you think this would be a full day, but there is more. There was a parade of traditionally dressed dancing school children that just happened by. That was cool, and then we went off to Qorichanka site for some impressive Incan ruins and neat modern art. Next up it was time for a drink. Of course, there were hundreds of children dancing in the main square after the parade so we stopped to watch, play with the camera and get cold.
This brings us to the Cross Keys Pub. You get 2 for 1 drinks at happy hour. It was time to try a pisco sour, so we got two (for the price of one). We sat in the comfy chairs to enjoy our beverages and catch up on email. Next it was time to try something else. You know, if you get two for one, you might as well try two different drinks. Happy hour in Peru is slightly different. It turns out you get two of only the same drink for the price of one. So we were rather surprised to get 4 drinks delivered the table. We managed. Anyway, then it was time for some dinner. We ended up at an odd place where the waiters were wearing jester hats, and half the clientelle were stuffed animals, and the menus were children's books. Odd, but enjoyable. That was a full day.
Patrick (&Bethany)
June 8, 2011
Just as I had begun to wonder why we had decided to take the 10 hour bus trip along this dusty goat path, the bus passed through the fields. The view opened up and we could see for miles. A quaint village was nestled at the bottom of the valley. Beyond that rose a row of green mountains. Peeking their snow capped tops above those mountains stood craggy majestic peaks. We zig zagged through the switchbacks past cute huts with grass thatched roofs until we were tucked into that little valley we had seen from above. We ate with the locals in the town of Chumbes before stepping back into the bus to continue our journey. This journey is not for those who are nervous about heights or have anyone with a tiny bladder, but for the views it is unparalleled.
Bethany (&Patrick)
